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ORANGE HAIR: Dress and hair with the fashion colors of this summer. Satin dress with underskirt of muslin in several thicknesses. Gabrielle Lys. May 6, 2008.
ORANGE HAIR:
Dress and hair with the fashion colors of this summer. Satin dress with underskirt of muslin in several thicknesses.
Gabrielle Lys. May 6, 2008.


THE SUN KING: Elegance of a belgian cone of the grunge world... The Sun king reinvents the man with each one of his appearances. Boots and leather dress surmounted by a false collar Sun color gold. Gabrielle Lys. September 2007.
THE SUN KING:
Elegance of a belgian cone of the grunge world... The "Sun king" reinvents the man with each one of his appearances. Boots and leather dress surmounted by a false collar "Sun" color gold.
Gabrielle Lys. September 2007.


THE BLACK WIZARD: Because the black will never be a color as the others... He wears a dress, mitts and black hood on earrings in sharp blades. Gabrielle Lys December 15th, 2007.
THE BLACK WIZARD:
Because the black will never be a color as the others... He wears a dress, mitts and black hood on earrings in sharp blades.
Gabrielle Lys
December 15th, 2007.


The night bird: the night come, he wanders in the bars of the city. White shirt with collar out of V, cotton anthracite skirt, boots of rough riding and black raincoat out of  leather. Gabrielle Lys 2005.
The night bird: the night come, he wanders in the bars of the city. White shirt with collar out of V, cotton anthracite skirt, boots of rough riding and black raincoat out of leather. Gabrielle Lys 2005.


The garçonnes or the first women in trousers.

Introduction

dot  Less than one hundred years before the movement of the men out of Skirts, there were the women in trousers.... This article pays homage to these women pionnières who had courage to face the homophobie, with the mockeries, with the disapproval of the society during the decade 1920-1930 while carrying the trousers. By adopting the dress of the men, they were the precursors of the movement of emancipation and liberalization of the women.

Poses calculated or urgent seized by the photographer ? the garonne with the car.
Poses calculated or urgent seized by the photographer ?
"the garonne with the car".

La garçonne.
dot  Symbol of the Mad years, the garçonne, with her cut hair, her shortened dresses, her tubular look is a figure of androgyne mode which hesitates between masculine and invention of a new femininity. She incarne, in ambiguous manner, the emancipation of the women. The adversaries with this emancipation did not fail to compare the garçonnes to the lesbians, thus using the homophobie against the women. Thus, since 1889, we estimate that we almost always can suspect a homosexuality among women who carry the short hair or which gets dressed like men or who practise the sports of the men. The sign of the sex by clothing is indeed at that time a fundamental cultural feature. It assigns each sex in its place in all the manifestations of the social life. However, in this century marked by the male domination, to adopt the dress of the men is a gesture of stamping. Women face to the sarcastic remarks become models for the women witch like freedom: Rosa Happiness, George Sand, exploring Jane Dieulafoy or the writter Rachilde wear the male dress.

Short cut and squared said precisely to the garonne Louise Brooks.
Short cut and squared said precisely "to the garonne"
Louise Brooks.

dot  In 1920, the short cut and squared said precisely "to the garçonne" holds the top of the paving stone while the movie inaugurates the legendary career of star like Louise Brooks. The opponents of the emancipation of the women make run the rumour that the short cuts cause baldnesses, or, on the contrary, activate the pilosity of the face... But a new femininity is invented : The released neck and the nape of the neck emphasize outer earrings. On the stripped arms scintillate of many rigid bracelets, tightened "with the slave" while the movement of the body is underlined by many jewels imagination and pins...

New femininity:  the released nape of the neck emphasizes large collars. Louise Brooks
New femininity: the released nape of the neck emphasizes large collars.
Louise Brooks

The arrival of the trousers

dot  The appearance of the trousers In 1924, the Skirts are "short": on average to 26 cm of the ground. In 1925, they are to 30 or 35 cm of the ground. In 1926, they are to 40 cm then lengthen gradually until 1930 when they will be stabilized to 30 or 32 cm of the ground. But with the garçonne, male wardrobe enters the female cloakroom. It is not a question of vestimentary eccentricity but falls under a progress of feminism. The equality of the sexes seems initially like a negation of femininity and a will to imitate the men. The trousers, symbol of virility appears at the end of the Twenties in female wardrobe even they are already used since 1920 for horsemanship, hunting or golf. They also exist in the form of silk pyjamas to replace the housecoat since 1924. With the variation of the changes, the countryside will remain a long time faithful to its vestimentary traditions and its regional costumes. Thus, a long time, some priests will refuse the communion with the girls in trousers. The public school will hardly be shown more tolerant by prohibiting the trousers until the end of the Sixties, except during the winter rigours, provided that it is carried under the Skirt. In 1930, the women's right to get dressed as a man is even discussed in front of the courts. Thus, Violette Morris, catch of the sporting female Federation of France carries felt sorry for because its federation withdrew her licence because of her behaviour considered to be too male. To 37 years, she increases very short cut hair, the trousers and jacket with tie. she will be even marked by the rumour to have to remove her too prominent chest to drive its car... The court will declare that "to carry trousers not allowed for women, the sporting female federation of France had perfectly the right to prohibit it"...

The actress Charlotte Andler in 1929. Jacket, trousers, shirt, bow tie, gloves. Male wardrobe enters the female cloakroom.
The actress Charlotte Andler in 1929.
Jacket, trousers, shirt, bow tie, gloves.
Male wardrobe enters the female cloakroom.

dot  Nevertheless, these courageous women will triumph over the aesthetic divergences, morals and policies to enter manners and to thus open the way of the modern woman such as we know it today.
Gabrielle Lys
Bibliography:
"Les Garçonnes. Modes et fantasmes des années folles".
Christine Bard, Paris, Flammarion, 1998.


Short cut and squared said precisely to the garonne Louise Brooks.
Short cut and squared said precisely "to the garonne"
Louise Brooks.


The site is a success thanks to you all. Thank you for your expressions of sympathy in the golden book and ideological support of members. Thank you also with those which write personal messages to me. They suit me right to the heart and push me to advance always further.
Gabrielle Lys

THINKER : Gabrielle Lys. June 24, 2008.
THINKER :
Gabrielle Lys. June 24, 2008.


BEAUTIFUL, ALL THAT...: Make me a place In your future So that I re-sift Less my memories A small place Here, now Because time passes With steps of giant I will be made new, very beautiful, all that... To be with you... [Fais moi une place - Franoise Hardy]  Boots of Mars. Swell skirt and Perfecto. Gabrielle Lys Octobre 2007.
BEAUTIFUL, ALL THAT...:
Make me a place
In your future
So that I re-sift
Less my memories
A small place
Here, now
Because time passes
With steps of giant
I will be made new, very beautiful, all that...
To be with you...
[Fais moi une place - Franoise Hardy]

Boots of Mars. Swell skirt and Perfecto.
Gabrielle Lys Octobre 2007.


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