"It is your attitude, not aptitude, that determines your altitude."
[Zig Ziglar]

             Changer en Français

MiSSing Sign :
dot  Home
dot  Presentation
dot  Email me
dot  GuestBook (80)
dot  Write in the GuestBook
dot  Events (1)(15)
dot  Links (6)

Drawings :
dot  All
dot  Shaman
dot  Cubism
dot  The dress
dot  New York City
dot  Words of Songs
dot  Colored hairs
dot  Pencil drawings
dot  Warrior of the Light
dot  Androgyne

Psychology:
  Not easy being a boy
  Skirting Men
  "Les garçonnes"
  False ideas
  Estimates itself
  Builders of culture
  To dare the Skirt
  Our clothes speak to us
  Reflexions about the Skirt

Fashion Articles:
  Tee-Shirt
  Gothic culture
  The Golden Mean
  Proportion of Skirt
  Skirt's councils
  Skirt's lexicon
  Boot's lexicon
  Androgyny and Fashion

Members :
dot  Login
  Members List
  The Wall
dot  Register as Member (free)

The adventurer: On board his jeep, he crosses the deserts of Australia to the research of the gold seam. Sweat out of cotton, skirt in flax with pocket for dagger, boots and hat out of leather, scarf in flax, girdles out of leather with pocket for gourd. Gabrielle Lys February 2006.
The adventurer:
On board his jeep, he crosses the deserts of Australia to the research of the gold seam. Sweat out of cotton, skirt in flax with pocket for dagger, boots and hat out of leather, scarf in flax, girdles out of leather with pocket for gourd. Gabrielle Lys February 2006.


MY NEXT LIFE: But if you don't change your situation Then you'll die. Don't die. Please don't die... [Commercial for Levi - Placebo]  Gabrielle since the beginning, and without scars, will create the fashion of the mauve hair and the cow-boy hats. Gabrielle Lys. August 15th, 2009.
MY NEXT LIFE:
"But if you don't change your situation
Then you'll die.
Don't die.
Please don't die..."
[Commercial for Levi - Placebo]

Gabrielle since the beginning,
and without scars,
will create the fashion of the mauve hair
and the cow-boy hats.
Gabrielle Lys. August 15th, 2009.


PERFECT LOOK: He is 16 years old and plays to be a bishonen. Hair and blue boots. Wool Skirt and sweater without  handles matched on a shirt with short handles. Gabrielle Lys. September 2007.
PERFECT LOOK:
He is 16 years old and plays to be a bishonen. Hair and blue boots. Wool Skirt and sweater without handles matched on a shirt with short handles.
Gabrielle Lys. September 2007.


RETURN OF THE ANGEL: He knows that the Angel of That which inspires him went to make a turn. The Warrior keeps his attention turned towards his fight, and he perseveres, even when all appears vain to him. Soon, the Angel will return and, with the simple rustle of his wings, the joy will be again there. [Handbook of the Warrior of the Light - Paulo Coelho]  The Angel of the Warrior is back. He wears a blue satin dress with deep cut off out of velvet, a helmet and an arm of armour. The dress with the armour symbolizes his identity bipolarity. He carries the crowned feather, symbol of his celestial capacity. Gabrielle Lys. February 28, 2008.
RETURN OF THE ANGEL:
"He knows that the Angel of That which inspires him went to make a turn. The Warrior keeps his attention turned towards his fight, and he perseveres, even when all appears vain to him. Soon, the Angel will return and, with the simple rustle of his wings, the joy will be again there."
[Handbook of the Warrior of the Light - Paulo Coelho]

The Angel of the Warrior is back. He wears a blue satin dress with deep cut off out of velvet, a helmet and an arm of armour. The dress with the armour symbolizes his identity bipolarity. He carries the crowned feather, symbol of his celestial capacity.
Gabrielle Lys. February 28, 2008.



The garçonnes or the first women in trousers.

Introduction

dot  Less than one hundred years before the movement of the men out of Skirts, there were the women in trousers.... This article pays homage to these women pionnières who had courage to face the homophobie, with the mockeries, with the disapproval of the society during the decade 1920-1930 while carrying the trousers. By adopting the dress of the men, they were the precursors of the movement of emancipation and liberalization of the women.

Poses calculated or urgent seized by the photographer ? the garonne with the car.
Poses calculated or urgent seized by the photographer ?
"the garonne with the car".

La garçonne.
dot  Symbol of the Mad years, the garçonne, with her cut hair, her shortened dresses, her tubular look is a figure of androgyne mode which hesitates between masculine and invention of a new femininity. She incarne, in ambiguous manner, the emancipation of the women. The adversaries with this emancipation did not fail to compare the garçonnes to the lesbians, thus using the homophobie against the women. Thus, since 1889, we estimate that we almost always can suspect a homosexuality among women who carry the short hair or which gets dressed like men or who practise the sports of the men. The sign of the sex by clothing is indeed at that time a fundamental cultural feature. It assigns each sex in its place in all the manifestations of the social life. However, in this century marked by the male domination, to adopt the dress of the men is a gesture of stamping. Women face to the sarcastic remarks become models for the women witch like freedom: Rosa Happiness, George Sand, exploring Jane Dieulafoy or the writter Rachilde wear the male dress.

Short cut and squared said precisely to the garonne Louise Brooks.
Short cut and squared said precisely "to the garonne"
Louise Brooks.

dot  In 1920, the short cut and squared said precisely "to the garçonne" holds the top of the paving stone while the movie inaugurates the legendary career of star like Louise Brooks. The opponents of the emancipation of the women make run the rumour that the short cuts cause baldnesses, or, on the contrary, activate the pilosity of the face... But a new femininity is invented : The released neck and the nape of the neck emphasize outer earrings. On the stripped arms scintillate of many rigid bracelets, tightened "with the slave" while the movement of the body is underlined by many jewels imagination and pins...

New femininity:  the released nape of the neck emphasizes large collars. Louise Brooks
New femininity: the released nape of the neck emphasizes large collars.
Louise Brooks

The arrival of the trousers

dot  The appearance of the trousers In 1924, the Skirts are "short": on average to 26 cm of the ground. In 1925, they are to 30 or 35 cm of the ground. In 1926, they are to 40 cm then lengthen gradually until 1930 when they will be stabilized to 30 or 32 cm of the ground. But with the garçonne, male wardrobe enters the female cloakroom. It is not a question of vestimentary eccentricity but falls under a progress of feminism. The equality of the sexes seems initially like a negation of femininity and a will to imitate the men. The trousers, symbol of virility appears at the end of the Twenties in female wardrobe even they are already used since 1920 for horsemanship, hunting or golf. They also exist in the form of silk pyjamas to replace the housecoat since 1924. With the variation of the changes, the countryside will remain a long time faithful to its vestimentary traditions and its regional costumes. Thus, a long time, some priests will refuse the communion with the girls in trousers. The public school will hardly be shown more tolerant by prohibiting the trousers until the end of the Sixties, except during the winter rigours, provided that it is carried under the Skirt. In 1930, the women's right to get dressed as a man is even discussed in front of the courts. Thus, Violette Morris, catch of the sporting female Federation of France carries felt sorry for because its federation withdrew her licence because of her behaviour considered to be too male. To 37 years, she increases very short cut hair, the trousers and jacket with tie. she will be even marked by the rumour to have to remove her too prominent chest to drive its car... The court will declare that "to carry trousers not allowed for women, the sporting female federation of France had perfectly the right to prohibit it"...

The actress Charlotte Andler in 1929. Jacket, trousers, shirt, bow tie, gloves. Male wardrobe enters the female cloakroom.
The actress Charlotte Andler in 1929.
Jacket, trousers, shirt, bow tie, gloves.
Male wardrobe enters the female cloakroom.

dot  Nevertheless, these courageous women will triumph over the aesthetic divergences, morals and policies to enter manners and to thus open the way of the modern woman such as we know it today.
Gabrielle Lys
Bibliography:
"Les Garçonnes. Modes et fantasmes des années folles".
Christine Bard, Paris, Flammarion, 1998.


Short cut and squared said precisely to the garonne Louise Brooks.
Short cut and squared said precisely "to the garonne"
Louise Brooks.


The site is a success thanks to you all. Thank you for your expressions of sympathy in the golden book and ideological support of members. Thank you also with those which write personal messages to me. They suit me right to the heart and push me to advance always further.
Gabrielle Lys

STORM OF COLORS: Storm of colors in Galliano style...  Dress out of silk with printed and make-up multi colors. Gabrielle Lys. October 18, 2008.
STORM OF COLORS:
Storm of colors in Galliano style...

Dress out of silk with printed and make-up multi colors.
Gabrielle Lys. October 18, 2008.


LE CHEVALIER D'EON: Initially diplomatic then secret agent, an ordinance of Louis XVI obliged him to take the female dress... In 1777, the Chevalier d'Eon wears a splendid dress of the 18th century out of silk with green satin cut off and underskirt. Gabrielle Lys. April 13th 2008.
LE CHEVALIER D'EON:
Initially diplomatic then secret agent, an ordinance of Louis XVI obliged him to take the female dress... In 1777, the Chevalier d'Eon wears a splendid dress of the 18th century out of silk with green satin cut off and underskirt.
Gabrielle Lys. April 13th 2008.


Last statistics :
dot  100 visits today
dot  70 visits today
dot  30 visits today
dot  6726 visits by day max
dot  421739 visits
dot  551 Supporters  55  496
dot  80 Messages
dot  180 Drawings

Last member
20/02/2012 - 17h35
Pauline
- L'hay les roses - France -
Mais le symbole plus emblématique de la mode à la garçonne est la coupe de cheveux. Incarnée au cinéma par l’actrice Louise Brook, la coupe courte devient célèbre et est porté par toutes les femmes. Symbole d'émancipation, la coupe courte séduit et s'impose. En 1925, une femme sur trois aurait fait couper ses cheveux. Mais déjà en 1903, Colette arborait la coiffure courte. En mai 1917 Paul Morand écrit : « depuis 3 jours, c’est la mode de porter les cheveux courts. Toutes, elle suivent le mouvement, mené par Mme Letellier et Channel…». Les cheveux sont donc coiffés suivant la mode masculine, sous un chapeau cloche, à haute caloque cylindrique et dont les bords étroits tombent juste au dessus des sourcils. Les frères Antoine et René Rambaud devienne maitre dans l’art de cette coiffure qui fut renommer la coupe à la garçonne.
[Members list] (free)

Last member
17/07/2017 - 08h03
Patrick Lefetz
- Verdun - France -
Je porte les jupes Hyatus depuis 3 ans, pour le sport et la ville.
Autour dr moi, les femmes y sont favorables et certains hommes sont prés à oser le port de la jupe

[Supporters List] (free)

Last msg of GuestBook :
Jean - Lyon - France - - added 08/02/2016.
Bravo pour ce magnifique site
Dommage que les articles sur la jupe se fassent rares.
Je me suis mis à porter la jupe de temps en temps depuis un an. Au début difficile de s'aventurer en ville tant la crainte des regards est grande. Mais en fait, cela passe assez bien. Cependant, j'ai l'impression d'être bien seul et j'aimerais bien que d'autres osent et que ce vêtement puisse ainsi être porté plus facilement.
Je précise que je suis un jeune senior et c'est par plaisir que je porte la jupe. Liberté de mouvement, originalité, confort.
Espérant que tout cela évolue vite...


[Add a message]


© This website is protected by copyright, all rights reserved - MissingSign - Gabrielle Lys - 2004 - 2017.
Any reproduction and/or redistribution of content by any means whatsoever is subject to specific authorization of its author.
SABAM number 00768391789 ©


100 V.